Kosaka in Northern Tohoku: Wine Grape Harvest Reaches Its Peak in a Cool-Climate Region

Wine Grand, the main variety, shaped by big temperature swings

Kosaka is a mountain town in the north-east of Akita Prefecture, close to the border with Aomori Prefecture. Akita lies on the Sea of Japan side of northern Honshu and is known as a sake-producing region. In this town, however, wine grapes are grown as a local speciality. At Fumio Miyadate’s orchard in the Toki district, the harvest began in late August. As of 11 September, Wine Grand, the main variety accounting for about 90 per cent of the harvest, was at its peak.

Wine Grand is characterised by a refreshing acidity, a faint sweetness and little astringency. This year the weather was kind, and the large gap between morning and evening temperatures and daytime highs gave the grapes plenty of sweetness. In the vineyard, split berries are removed by hand one by one so as not to spoil the flavour of the wine. Mr Miyadate says that nothing gives him more joy than harvesting grapes in good condition after tending them since spring. He adds that he hopes people will enjoy not only the grapes that become wine but also the table grapes.

Winemaking continues at Kosaka Nanataki Winery

At Kosaka Nanataki Winery in the town, grapes were being removed from their bunches and crushed every day as the harvest came in. This is the first step in making wine. The juice and skins are sent to tanks, where fermentation begins. On 11 September alone, about 1.8 tonnes of grapes were processed.

Daisuke Narita of the winery says he feels he has received high-quality grapes from the growers like a “baton” in a relay, and that he approaches the work with a sense of pressure. This year’s wine is expected to have a distinctly fruity character, and he aims to make a more approachable wine. Winemaking will continue until early November, and the aromatic new wine (nouveau) is due to go on sale on 1 December.

How to enjoy cool-climate Japanese wine in Europe

“Japan Wine” (Nihon Wine) is a designation for wine made solely from grapes grown in Japan and produced in Japan. Wines made from grapes with clear acidity and little astringency, like Kosaka’s Wine Grand, are a style to be enjoyed for their lightness rather than their weight. In Europe, try specialist sake shops and Japanese grocers, and use the “Japan Wine” designation and the place name on the label as your guide. Served slightly chilled with white fish, dishes made with soy sauce, or vegetable dishes seasoned with herbs, the balance of fruit and acidity is easy to appreciate. The December release of the nouveau can also serve as a guide to how the year’s grapes turned out in northern Tohoku.