The Sake Wire

Low-ABV dry sake brewed by a young kurabito: Ryok goes on sale

Tsujihonten, a sake brewery in Maniwa, Okayama Prefecture, launched Ryok on 7 September, a new dry, lower-alcohol brand developed by a young brewer in training.

The “lightness” and “authenticity” a young brewer was aiming for

Tsujihonten, located in Katsuyama, Maniwa, in northern Okayama Prefecture, is a sake brewery known for its “Gozenshu” brand. On 7 September the company launched a new brand, “Ryok”. It was developed by Mr Inoue, a young kurabito (a craftsman who brews sake) who is training at the brewery. Aiming to keep the genuine character of sake while also making it light enough to drink casually, he kept the alcohol content modest and finished the flavour dry.

Choosing low alcohol

Close-up of sake poured into a cup (ochoko)
Close-up of sake poured into a cup (ochoko) — Photo: Frederick Shaw (Unsplash)

The alcohol content of sake is generally around 15 to 16%, which is high among brewed drinks such as wine and beer. In recent years, low-alcohol sake at 13 to 14%, or even below 10%, has become more common. Lowering the strength while keeping the drink satisfying is not easy for brewers. Ryok is distinctive in that it keeps the strength down and deliberately opts for a dry style. It aims to reach younger people who are unfamiliar with sake, as a first glass to pick up.

A new move from a brewery that keeps reforming

A paddy field with ripened rice ears (illustrative image)
A paddy field with ripened rice ears (illustrative image) — Photo: Declan Sun (Unsplash)

At Tsujihonten, President Soichiro Tsuji and his sister Maiko Tsuji, the toji (head brewer), have led the brewery’s reforms. From the 2022 brewing season they switched to making all their sake from Omachi, a sake rice grown mainly in Okayama Prefecture, becoming the first brewery in Japan to use Omachi for its entire output. Entrusting a new brand to a young brewer reflects the brewery’s wish to nurture the next generation of makers and drinkers at the same time.

For European readers, Ryok is one example of a new current in sake. The original article does not mention overseas sales, so it may not be available straight away. Even so, low-alcohol, dry sake is gradually turning up in specialist shops in Europe. If a label or description mentions an alcohol content of around 13% or lower, dry, or Omachi, take notice. A light, dry sake served chilled in a white-wine glass releases its aroma more readily, and works as a food sake alongside raw oysters, white-fish carpaccio or light starters. The brewery name, “Gozenshu”, is also a useful clue for following future developments.

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