Champagne-Level Bubbles in Sake: Ten Years at Tenzan Shuzo

Every year, Japan’s Minister of Education, Culture, Sports, Science and Technology honours people who have made notable improvements to the techniques used in their workplaces, with the Creativity and Ingenuity Merit Award. In 2026, the winners included Jun Goto (60) of Tenzan Shuzo in Ogi, Saga Prefecture, in north-western Kyushu. Goto is the toji, the master brewer who leads the brewing floor, and he was recognised for developing a sparkling sake with a volume of carbon dioxide and a fineness of bubble to rival Champagne.

Ten Years in Pursuit of Bubbles That Sell All Year Round

Tenzan Shuzo had long made sparkling sake with a second fermentation in the bottle. The lees (ori, the sediment of yeast and other solids) that settle at the bottom of the bottle go on fermenting and produce carbon dioxide. However, because the sake was unpasteurised “nama-zake”, it kept maturing in the bottle and its flavour changed easily, so the period in which it could be sold was limited. Goto therefore discussed the future of sake with the company’s president, Kensuke Shichida, and they decided to aim for a clear, fine-bubbled sake that could be sold throughout the year and chosen, like Champagne, for toasts at celebrations.

Wrestling with Off-Flavours, and Rethinking the Process

At first, he repeatedly removed the lees while the second fermentation went on in the bottle. But problems persisted: the amount of gas would not increase as hoped, and unwanted aromas appeared. He spent five to six years feeling his way forward before finally reworking the process itself on a large scale. He changed the details one by one, including the way the sake was pasteurised (hiire) and the blending of sake from several tanks, and so suppressed the off-flavours. The result is a dry sparkling sake whose flavour remains firmly intact even after a long period of bottle fermentation.

Overseas, and on to Vintages

Tenzan Shuzo already exports its sake. Goto says he wants people overseas to learn about the potential of sake, and he is keen to take on a variety of challenges, including vintage sake (bottles labelled with a year).

When choosing a sparkling sake in Europe, first check that the label says “bottle-fermented”. Then look at whether it is a clear type with the lees removed, or a white, cloudy type in which the lees remain. A clear, dry style like the one Tenzan Shuzo aimed for is best served well chilled, as with Champagne, in a flute or a white-wine glass, and suits an aperitif or a toast. It can also be fun to taste it alongside a Champagne and compare the fineness of the bubbles and the gentle umami that comes from rice. Whether Tenzan Shuzo’s sake is available depends on the importer, so it is worth asking at a specialist sake shop.