Shirasugi Shuzo takes on a lactic-acid-free "modern kimoto"

Shirasugi Shuzo, in Kyotango on the Sea of Japan coast in northern Kyoto Prefecture, was founded in 1777 and has a history of almost 250 years. In August 2026 the brewery released two bottlings in the “shirakiku AVANT-GARDE” series, a new flagship for its “shirakiku” brand. Its defining feature is a new method that uses no lactic acid at all, an ingredient long considered almost indispensable in sake brewing.

A small brewery that makes sake only from table rice

Satoru Shirasugi, the 11th head of the family and also the toji (head brewer), faced a management crisis soon after taking over the brewery. His way out was to brew with Koshihikari grown locally in Tango, a rice he had fallen in love with. Koshihikari is the most widely eaten table rice in Japan and, unlike “sake rice”, which is bred to suit brewing, is generally regarded as unsuited to sake. Even so, since 2015 the brewery has made all of its sake from Tango-grown table rice. With a team of just four people it keeps experimenting, and in recent years, it says, it has won more recognition in various competitions. The label designs are also done by the toji himself.

Replacing lactic acid with the citric acid of black koji

In sake brewing, the first step is to make the yeast starter known as shubo. Lactic acid keeps the starter acidic and holds unwanted microbes in check. The now-dominant “sokujo” method adds lactic acid, while traditional “kimoto” and “yamahai” rely on lactic acid that arises naturally. Shirasugi Shuzo follows neither route. It keeps the starter acidic with the citric acid produced by black koji, as used in shochu and awamori, and sterilises the starter by its own method, achieving a shubo without lactic acid. The change in acid composition is said to give a mellowness not found before. The brewery sees this as part of the recent “modern kimoto” trend, in which breweries reinterpret kimoto in their own ways, and has named its approach “Shirakiku-style modern kimoto”. Mr Shirasugi says that after struggling to break away from tradition, he ended up arriving at a place that connects with traditional kimoto.

Red apple and pear, and how to enjoy it in Europe

The first release, “CRIMSON RED”, is named for an aroma reminiscent of red apple, and the second, “CHARTREUSE GREEN”, for one reminiscent of pear. Both are described as mellow on the palate. The domestic price is 2,420 yen (tax included) for 720 ml. At launch, the outlets named were specialist retailers in Japan and an official online shop that was still in preparation at the time; expansion in Europe was not mentioned. Even so, “modern kimoto” is one of the keywords worth watching for anyone trying to read where sake is heading. If you come across kimoto or yamahai sake in Europe, pay attention to the texture of the acidity. To enjoy the fruity aromas, you could also try a white wine glass and serve it slightly chilled. You can follow Shirasugi Shuzo on the brewery’s official Instagram.