The Age of Junmai Ginjo and a Sake Rice Crisis: The Industry Association on Sake Today

This summer, the Japan Sake and Shochu Makers Association (Nihon Shuzo Kumiai Chuokai), the national body of Japanese sake producers, held an event for the press. The explanation given by director Utsunomiya can be summed up in three points: changing domestic tastes, a crisis in brewing rice, and buoyant exports.

“The Age of Junmai Ginjo” and a Widening Range of Styles

Director Utsunomiya described today’s domestic market as “the age of junmai ginjo-shu”. Japanese sake has a grade known as “tokutei meisho-shu” (designated-name sake), which is given to sake that meets certain conditions on ingredients and production methods. “Junmai” means sake made only from rice and rice koji; “ginjo” means the rice is polished from the outside down to 60% or less of its original weight and fermented slowly at low temperature. Consumption of ordinary table sake is falling, but sake in these grades, junmai ginjo in particular, is growing in popularity year after year. He added that new styles such as low-alcohol sake of around 5 to 8% ABV and sparkling sake are attracting attention, as are traditional methods such as kimoto (a traditional technique that makes use of naturally occurring lactic acid bacteria) and brewing in wooden vats.

The Biggest Challenge Is Rice

The most serious challenge identified was brewing rice. Sake is made with dedicated varieties called “shuzo koteki mai” (sake rice), which normally sell for more than ordinary table rice. However, the rice shortage of 2024 sent the price of ordinary rice soaring, producing the unusual situation in which the two prices were reversed. As a result, fewer farmers are growing sake rice and it has become harder to keep up the contract farming arrangements between breweries and growers, so the foundations of sake brewing are being shaken.

Exports Led by the Premium End, and a Wider Range of Dishes

In contrast to the home market, exports are doing well. The main markets are the United States, China and Hong Kong, with hopes pinned on South-East Asia and Latin America in future. The sake that goes abroad is mostly at the premium end of the price range, and high-quality sake such as junmai ginjo is well regarded. At the venue, pairings were tried with achar, a spiced, pickle-style dish, and aged sake won favour with gizzard, while a rich, sweet sake was preferred with aubergine. According to Director Utsunomiya, fenugreek, which is used in curry powder, and aged sake share certain aromatic compounds.

If you are choosing sake in Europe, the words “Junmai Ginjo” on the label are one useful guide. The difficulty of securing sake rice, however, may affect future prices and supply, so it is a development worth watching. At home, try pairing aged sake with curry or spicy meat dishes, and a mellow, sweet sake with grilled aubergine. It shows that the ways of enjoying sake are expanding to cuisines beyond Japanese food.