The Sake Wire

Scottish brewer opens brewery in a Kochi village

Kelby John and his Scottish colleagues have opened a brewery, BRAVE & BRAW, in Hidaka village, Kochi Prefecture, and held a preview on 11 July.

Amber, malt-forward beer being poured at a craft brewery
Amber, malt-forward beer being poured at a craft brewery — Photo: cottonbro studio (Pexels)

A Scottish brewery is born in a Shikoku village

Fermentation tanks lined up in a small craft brewery
Fermentation tanks lined up in a small craft brewery — Photo: Erik Mclean (Pexels)

Kochi Prefecture lies on the southern side of Shikoku, Japan, facing the Pacific Ocean. It is known across Japan for its dry sake and its lively drinking culture. In Hidaka village, west of the prefectural capital, Kochi city, a craft brewery called BRAVE & BRAW has now been completed. According to the local television station Television Kochi, a preview was held on 11 July, and the grand opening was announced for 18 July. The brewery was set up by Kelby John and others from Scotland, and it is promoting “Scottish beer” as its signature.

Scottish character in the name

Heather-covered hills in the Scottish Highlands
Heather-covered hills in the Scottish Highlands — Photo: Clément Proust (Pexels)

“BRAW” in the brewery’s name is a Scots word meaning “splendid” or “fine”. The name pairs it with the English word “BRAVE”, echoing the sound. Scottish beer is generally known for styles that foreground malt sweetness and body, which is a different direction from American-style craft beer, where hop bitterness takes centre stage. However, the reports did not say which styles or brands the brewery will make.

Making craft beer in the countryside

A tasting set of beers in different colours
A tasting set of beers in different colours — Photo: Bohdan Stocek (Unsplash)

The US craft beer association, the Brewers Association, defines “craft brewers” as small, independent producers. Among the related ideas it cites are being innovative and being tied to the local community. A brewer from Europe opening a brewery in a Japanese village is a development that speaks to both of these ideas.

The reports contained no information suggesting that BRAVE & BRAW beers will be available in Europe. Still, there are ways to enjoy this story. First, try revisiting malt-led styles such as Scottish ale or “wee heavy” at a local pub or specialist shop. Knowing the benchmark flavour makes it easier to imagine how a brewer might interpret it with Japanese water and climate. You could also try a tasting at a shop that stocks Japanese craft beer. Kochi is also famous for its dishes of bonito seared on the surface until fragrant, so you might try pairing a smoky, savoury fish dish with malty sweetness at home. We will wait for further news on which styles the brewery will focus on, and whether it plans to look overseas.

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