Niigata's Sasaiwai: New Toji's 12% Genshu 'BAMBOOSHOOTS'

Sasaiwai Shuzo, a sake brewery in Nishikan Ward, Niigata, released a new series, “Sasaiwai BAMBOOSHOOTS -EPISODE 1-”, in September 2026. Brewing is led by Yusuke Ono, the new toji, and a young production team. The toji is the master brewer who is responsible for the whole brewing process at a sake brewery. This sake has an alcohol content of 12% and is a “genshu”, to which almost no water is added. Most sake is around 15%, so this is considerably lighter. A sake that was well received in last year’s trial brew has been turned into a proper series with a new label.

First change of toji in 38 years

Yoichi Hatakeyama served as toji for 38 years and preserved the flavour of Sasaiwai, a sake much loved locally. He retired after the 2024 brewing year. His successor is Ono, who studied under Hatakeyama for four years. He has directed the brewing since the winter of 2025. Ono wants to protect the brewery’s long-standing sake while also creating new ones. To that end, he has visited breweries inside and outside Niigata Prefecture for training. In Niigata, Myoko Shuzo in Joetsu also saw a change of toji in 2025, for the first time in 36 years. The handover from veterans to a younger generation is one of the current trends in the region. The series name “BAMBOOSHOOTS” is English for “takenoko”. It expresses the young team’s resolve, like shoots that have just pushed out of the ground, to grow straight and tall from here.

Four techniques: “Sanki Haku Tei”

The brewery describes the design of this sake with a four-character phrase, “Sanki Haku Tei”. “San” (acid) refers to adding lactic acid bacteria to the shubo. The shubo is the starter mash in which the yeast that drives fermentation is multiplied, and the lactic acid bacteria used are cultured at the Niigata Prefecture Brewing Experiment Station. “Ki” (noble) refers to an old technique of replacing part of the brewing water with the brewery’s own sake; sake made this way is generally called “kijoshu”. It is said to give a rich taste and an elegant flavour. “Haku” (white) refers to the partial use of white koji, which is mainly used for shochu. The brewery believes that the large amount of citric acid produced by white koji suppresses off-flavours when the sake is chilled, leading to freshness and complexity. “Tei” (low) means that this is a low-alcohol genshu. Rather than lowering the strength by diluting with water, Ono used techniques he learned in training outside the prefecture so that body and umami remain even at 12%.

Kamenoo, an old local rice

The rice used is 100% Kamenoo grown at Sorano Farm, in the same Nishikan Ward as the brewery. Kamenoo is a sake rice variety with a long history, but the brewery says it plans to change the rice it uses in future. The rice polishing ratio is 65%. The polishing ratio is the proportion of the grain that remains after polishing, so 65% means the outer 35% has been milled away. The sake has been pasteurised (heat-treated), so it can be distributed at room temperature. The domestic price is 2,420 yen (tax included) for 720 ml, and it is sold only through specialist retailers. The series is planned as a trilogy. “EPISODE 2: DRY”, a dry style, is aimed for release in spring 2027.

This sake is sold only through specialist retailers in Japan, and for now it is unclear whether it will reach Europe. A good first step is to remember the names “Sasaiwai” and “BAMBOOSHOOTS” and ask shops that stock Japanese sake. The point of interest is how much body can be achieved at 12%. White koji is used here to suppress off-flavours when chilled, so try it chilled first and check the balance of sweetness and acidity. Low-alcohol sake pairs easily with food, much like wine, so it is worth trying with dishes that have acidity or umami.