Brewing the Northernmost Koshu in Akita: Kosaka Nanataki's First Attempt

Kosaka Nanataki Winery, in Kosaka Town, Akita Prefecture, in the Tohoku region at the northernmost end of Japan’s main island of Honshu, has announced its first-ever Koshu wine, “Kosaka Nanataki Winery Koshu Free Run 2025”. Koshu is a white grape variety native to Japan and the best-known name in Japanese wine. This bottle is a first vintage made solely from grapes grown in the Shonai area of Yamagata Prefecture, said to be the northern limit for growing the variety.

Northern-Grown Koshu, Made from Free-Run Juice Only

The wine is 100% Koshu harvested in the Shonai area of Yamagata Prefecture, on the Sea of Japan side. Koshu is mainly grown in Yamanashi Prefecture in central Honshu, and there is still little Koshu from cooler northern regions. The winery used only “free-run juice”, which flows naturally from the fruit without heavy pressure. This avoids drawing out too much from the skins and seeds through pressing, and was chosen to preserve Koshu’s delicate fruitiness.

Two Techniques: Sur Lie and Stainless Steel Tanks

For the winemaking, the winery adopted the sur lie method, in which the wine is left in contact with the lees after fermentation. Known from wines such as Muscadet in France’s Loire region, the technique adds umami, richness and body. The wine was also aged for about ten months in stainless steel tanks, a first for the winery. Unlike wooden barrels, tanks impart little woody aroma, which makes it easier to express the variety’s true character. The result is a style with a gentle aroma reminiscent of Japanese citrus and elegant fruit, layered with the richness that comes from sur lie ageing and leading into a long finish. The winery describes it as slightly sweet and approachable. The price in Japan is 2,640 yen (tax included).

For European Readers: Looking for a New Side of Koshu

We cannot say whether this wine is available in Europe right now, but the trend toward “northern Koshu” is worth watching. Most Koshu seen in Europe comes from Yamanashi. Check the region on the label at wine shops or on the lists of importers of Japanese wine, and if you find Koshu from Tohoku, such as Yamagata, compare it. Bottles marked “Sur Lie” can be expected to have more body. Serve it well chilled, with seafood dishes using Japanese citrus such as yuzu, or with oysters and white fish, as you would with Muscadet.

References and sources

• Kosaka Nanataki Winery, “NEW ITEM: Japanese citrus aroma and a deep, lingering finish. Introducing ‘Kosaka Nanataki Winery Koshu Free Run’”