Hakutsuru's Josen wins top gold at National Kan-sake Contest

Sake is often thought of as a drink to be served chilled, but Japan has a long tradition of warming it, known as “kan”. According to an announcement made on 14 September by Hakutsuru Sake Brewing of Kobe, Hyogo Prefecture, its standard sake “Josen Hakutsuru” has won the top gold award in the “Value Hot Sake category” of the National Kan-sake Contest 2026, which selects sake that tastes good when warmed. What makes this award interesting is that it recognises not a premium sake but an everyday bottle.

A narrow gate: 11 out of 200 entries

The National Kan-sake Contest is run by the Sake Culture Research Institute, a private research body in Japan. Its aim is to spread awareness of the appeal of sake that shines when warmed, and entries are judged by experts. This year the Value Hot Sake category received 200 entries, and 11 of them won top gold, a mere 5.5 per cent. “Josen” is a grade name that Hakutsuru Sake Brewing uses for its own products. Hakutsuru is a major brewer with one of the largest shipment volumes in Japan (according to SAKE Street), and this sake is sold in a variety of sizes, from 1.8-litre bottles to 200-millilitre cups and cartons. According to the brewery, it has a balanced, moderate flavour that leans neither sweet nor dry, neither rich nor light, making it easy to drink without tiring of it and easy to pair with many kinds of dishes.

The world of kan, where the name changes with the temperature

It is said that warming sake increases its umami and makes the texture softer and fuller. Kan has different names depending on the temperature: 40 to 45°C is called “nurukan”, 45 to 50°C “jokan”, and 50 to 55°C “atsukan”. If sake is heated too much, the balance of taste and aroma collapses, so judging the temperature correctly is important. In this hot-sake category, the entries were judged after being warmed to 50 to 55°C. From this, Josen Hakutsuru can be considered to have been valued as a sake that keeps its balance even at relatively high temperatures.

Enjoying kan sake in Europe

Sake from large nationwide brewers such as Hakutsuru is relatively easy to find outside Japan. Kan can be enjoyed without any special equipment. One method is to pour the sake into a small heat-resistant container and warm it in a hot water bath, tasting it at slightly different temperatures from nurukan to atsukan. The way you perceive the aroma and sweetness may change. The brewery also recommends drinking it warm from autumn through winter. Pairing it with cold-season European home cooking such as stews, braises and roasts is one way to enjoy it.