Two Gunma breweries recognised at Britain's IWC and France's Kura Master

Gunma Izumi wins at competitions in both Britain and France

Gunma is an inland prefecture to the north-west of Tokyo. Shimaoka Shuzo, in Ota City in the south-east of the prefecture, is a long-established brewery founded in 1863. Two bottles from its flagship Gunma Izumi brand, the “Yamahai-moto Junmai” and the “Cho-tokusen Junmai”, won awards at two competitions at the same time. One was the sake category of the IWC (International Wine Challenge), a wine competition held in London. The other was Kura Master, a sake competition judged by French sommeliers and other experts.

Junmai means sake brewed only from rice, rice koji and water, with no added brewer’s alcohol. Yamahai-moto is a traditional brewing method that makes use of naturally occurring lactic acid bacteria and takes time to nurture the “shubo” (yeast starter) that drives fermentation. It tends to produce a sturdy flavour with acidity and richness. Shimaoka Shuzo mainly uses Wakamizu, a rice grown in Gunma Prefecture for sake brewing. In Japan, both sakes cost around 2,000 yen for a 720 ml bottle, a price range aimed at everyday meals. Sakes at that price have now won recognition from European judges.

Nagai Shuzo pursues aged sake with “THE MIZUBASHO PURE 2014”

Nagai Shuzo (president Norikichi Nagai), in the mountain village of Kawaba in northern Gunma, also won high praise at both competitions for its “THE MIZUBASHO PURE 2014”. It comes in a 720 ml bottle and has no list price. Nagai Shuzo was founded in 1886. Its sixth-generation president, Mr Nagai, has explored aged sake for about 30 years and has also worked on “hyoon chozo”, storage at minus 5°C. It is noteworthy that European judges, who are familiar with the culture of ageing wine, rewarded a bottle that carries its vintage in its name.

How to enjoy them in Europe

Both the IWC and Kura Master are awards chosen by European judges. A prize can also serve as a guide when shops and restaurants in Europe choose which brands to stock. If you come across Gunma Izumi, try it at room temperature rather than over-chilled, or warmed to around 40°C. You should taste the acidity and umami typical of yamahai. It also pairs easily with strongly flavoured European dishes such as hard cheeses, smoked foods and mushroom dishes. Nagai Shuzo’s sake, on the other hand, is best poured into a wine glass and sipped slowly, following the aromas as they change over time. Tasting two contrasting styles from the same prefecture side by side may give you a sense of the breadth of sake.